30 May 2002:  Long period swell

Jeff Callaghan

John
here is a message with attachments for synoptic group

As a follow up to earlier posting of long period swell being generated
between NZ and Antarctica,
the swell hit the Gold Coast yesterday afternoon. Today perfect surf  is
being reported from Burleigh and The Tweed River Mouth.
 

The swell arrived as a SE swell and  Hsig exceeded 3m and Hmax exceeded 5m.
The peak energy wave period was 16 sec which means the wavelength of the
peak swell would be around 400m. The wave rider buoy
is in 60 metres so that the  waves have undergone refraction before passing
over the buoy. I guess the main swell direction would be southerly and then
having been refracted near the coast to a direction from the SE.

 

The UK anals around generation time are attached
Jeff